A Friendly Walk Around the Mountain of God

A collana in the Sicilian language means “a friendly walk around”. It’s much like the archaic term “promenade”. If you’re a history buff, you can take one of these collana’s around the beautiful town of Erice and experience what is known as an “Open Museum”. Interestingly, two of the principles that differentiate an open museum from traditional museums are: it must be integrated into the urban fabric of Erice and must also be presented in its cultural-historical origin.

Located on the Tyrrhenian coast of western Sicily, Erice was settled by the Elymians, who originally emigrated from Asia Minor around 1200 BC. The city, also occupied by the Carthaginians, was renowned for a temple dedicated to the goddess of fertility, Astarte (the Roman goddess, Venus). As mythology goes, the king of Erice, Eryx lost to Hercules in a wrestling match. Over the course of time, this entire area played a pivotal role in the Punic and Carthaginian wars. As the result of being influenced by Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Byzantines and Normans, whoever lived in Erice, considered the city sacred. Churches and temples have been erected here throughout the ages, giving it the profound aspect of “the Mountain of God.” To this day, there remains an immense diversity in all things architectural, traditional and cultural. Taking a collana to the following sites will produce a delightful and leisurely 4 hour adventure.

King Frederick’s Tower was originally built during the Punic Wars. This tower would have most likely overlooked the Romans and Carthaginians battling for control of the Mediterranean. The tower was rebuilt by Frederick III of Aragon in the 13th Century.

The Royal Church was also built by Frederick III, with a prominent Gothic Chiaramonte style. It has been rebuilt, restructured and modernized through the ages.

San Isidoro’s Church was constructed over the ruins of the birthplace of Blessed Luigi Rabata, a Carmelite priest in 1666.

San Alberto’s Church was originally founded in 1371. This church was under the patronage of the Society of Whites - comprised of only men who could prove their noble lineage.

San Salvatore’s Monastery was originally a building belonging to the Chiaramonte family and donated to the Benedictine Order. The nuns who served there were all said to have come from the nobility of Erice.

San Martino’s Church was erected by Roger the Norman. Traditionally, the King was brought to the church to meet the city magistrates.

The Cordici Museum includes archeological findings from the 3,000 year history of Erice; from a 5th Century BC marble head of Aphrodite to military weapons from the Garibaldi era.

The “Ettore Majorana” Center for Scientific Culture was founded to promote scientific collaboration “without secrets and without borders.” Scientists meet and discuss problems concerning “planetary emergencies - without prejudices and secrets, demolishing ideological, racial and political barriers.”

San Pietro’s Church Both the church and monastery were founded in the 14th Century. In 1742, renowned architect-priest, Giovanni Amico renovated the church and connected the monastery with a passageway that crosses over a public street.

San Carlo’s Church was founded in 1617 and populated by Franciscan nuns who provided comfort and care to orphans from Erice.

San Giuliano’s Church was founded in 1006 by Grand Count Roger, who was grateful to San Giuliano for his assistance during the siege of Mount Erice against attacking Muslims.

San Francesco’s Church was constructed in 1362. Both church and monastery sat on the land where St. Albert of Abbati was born. In 1301, the city was under siege and blockaded by Duke Robert of Calabria. Looking for relief, Albert celebrated Mass. As he finished, three ships loaded with grain ran the blockade. The city was saved from starvation and Robert lifted the siege.

The Castle of Venus was built by the Normans in the 12th Century. According to Greek mythology, the walls of the temple were built by Daedalus, father of Icarus. Within the walls of the castle was the “well of Venus”, which, in later generations was considered to be the swimming pool of the goddess.

The Pepoli Tower was constructed in 1870. It was a meeting place for intellectuals, artists and men of culture. Today, it exists as a permanent Observatory and Beacon of Peace in the Mediterranean.

San Giovanni Battista’s Church was erected in the 15th Century. This church, along with others, contains an immense inventory of lapidary work. It also serves as a repository for other works of art that cannot be placed in their original locations.

San Cataldo’s Church was founded by the Normans, based on documents dating from 1339. It was dedicated to St. Cataldo, who died making a pilgrimage to the Holy Lands.

The “Casa Santa San Francesco di Sales” was founded by a priest from Erice and served as a house for spiritual exercises. This “Holy House” was a lodging for important dignitaries visiting the area.

Ruins of the Church of the Madonna Di Custonaci was at one time facing the Sanctuary of Custonaci. Beside the ruins was a fountain supposed to be the swimming pool of Apollo.

The Spanish Quarter was built during the 17th Century and sits on a rocky buttress overlooking the countryside that once belonged to the City of Erice.

San Antonio Abate’s Church was erected near the end of the 12th Century by Normans. It was built on the same rock formation that the Spanish Quarters were erected.

San Orsola’s Church is also called “Our Lady of Sorrows”. The church is adjacent to the Cyclopic Walls built from the 8th to the 6th Centuries BC.

The Cyclopic Walls that surround Erice were an important part of its military defense. Some foundational stones are engraved with the Phoenician letters “beth”, “ain” and “phe”. These letters could mean that the walls have “eyes” to see the enemy approaching, a “mouth” to devour the enemy in case of aggression and the symbol for a “safe dwelling” for its inhabitants.

Carmine’s Church was founded in 1423 and given to the Order of the Carmelite Fathers. Even though the church itself has been restructured, it retains its original Gothic characteristics.

The Militari Palace was home to Archpriest Barnardo Militari who donated it to the nuns of the Carmelite Order.

San Caterina’s Church was documented to be under construction in 1339 and sat next to an ancient hospital.

San Francesco Di Paolo’s Church was built in the 16th century. It was a church for farmers who prayed for intervention and protection of their farms.

San Teresa’s Church was founded in 1671 and occupied by Carmelite nuns. These nuns excelled in the creation of beautiful embroideries and delectable sweets.

You can enjoy your collana at a leisurely pace, stopping along the way at the many shops displaying Sicilian ceramics. Or, you can relax at an outdoor cafe and grab an arancini (rice ball stuffed with cheeses and meats). All in all, a day’s outing in Erice will offer you a wonderful and unique experience of discovering centuries of art and history that are all preserved in this “Open Museum”.