A Sicilian secret - "the sweet to die for"

It sits there so innocently, so confident in its own supremacy. It thinks its secret is safe from all those with a sweet tooth. Anzi! On the contrary! You are discovered, Behold - the Cassatelle alla Siciliana. This pastry remains a furtive delicacy to all but a few outside of Sicily.

While staying in the seaside village of Balestrate, Sicily, my landlord, Francesco shared his favorite coffee shop for a mid-morning espresso. As we entered, my eyes still adjusting from the Sicilian sun, I saw display cases to my right filled with mammoth trays of gelato so colorful, they rivaled a box of crayons. Center stage stood the quintessential Sicilian barista conversing with 8 customers, while simultaneously creating amazing coffee delicacies. On my left stood a 30 ft. display case holding trays of pastries and biscotti(cookies) way beyond description. As I stood there, eyes glazing, mouth watering, I wondered if there was a market for windshield wipers on the outside of display cases. Francesco called me to his table. "Provare questo", try this, he said as he presented a small napkin upon which rested a...what? an empanada in Italy? a turnover left out in a blizzard? What is this? "Cassatelle, con ricotta. Mangiare. Eat."

I must point out, at 70+ years old, I've eaten my fill of sweets; Old-world, New-world and somewhere-in-the-middle world. But, that first bite gave rise to something Archimedes must have felt while running naked through the streets of Siracusa, a mere 200 miles away. Eureka, indeed! I've just discovered something only a select few even know exist.

A delicate, sweet crunch followed by the warmth of ricotta generously embedded with tiny morsels of chocolate bits, plus faint essences of cinnamon and vanilla. The shell is made, I was told with Marsala wine, producing its unique flavor and texture. Fresh from the "friggitrice" (deep fryer), these delicate treasures a liberally, and I do mean liberally dusted with confectioners sugar. After the first bite, you look like you've just kissed a cream puff.

As I continued to travel from town to town, I made it a point each morning to enjoy my "espresso doppio e cassatelle". What I uncovered were few variations on the recipe theme; some slightly sweeter, some less crunchy. However, each was worthy of that first experience, having found something pivotal to my ongoing search for the ultimate pastry.

But let me tell you something, Signore Cassatelle; your secret is out! Your cover is blown. I'm going to blab to the world. You are no longer a cannoli's step-child. Your days of being incognito are officially over. Be prepared to be exposed to other dauntless souls who shall henceforth crave you, the Sicilian secret.

postscript: If Mario Puzo, author of "The Godfather" would have been willing to share this secret with the world, Clemenza's line could have just as easily been "leave the gun, take the cassatelle."